How Much is Black Beauty?

Edges, Extensions and Expenses: The cost of Black Beauty

Before leaving the house, a Black woman observes herself in the mirror and checks for everything—if her edges are laid, if her extensions are detectable, if she lost a few eyelash extensions while sleeping the night prior. If anything is out of place, an appointment is instantly booked. 

Presentation and first impressions are extremely important to Black women, so it is second nature for them to spend hundreds, even thousands of dollars on their appearance alone. About every two weeks, these women schedule multiple appointments ranging from hair, to nails, to eyelash extensions, brows and more.  

They have to mentally coordinate an entire checklist of services they need performed; with each service having its own cost and longevity. 

Other cultures may view these services as luxuries or another unnecessary expense. However for Black women, these services are a part of their personality and history; serving as a form of happiness and therapy. These services have become a huge part of African American culture and a way for Black women to express themselves. 

According to Nielsen IQ, the African American population spent $9.4 billion on beauty products alone in 2023. This was a significant increase of 32% since 2000.

To provide insight on the realities of the cost of Black beauty, three Black women shared their own typical, personal appointments, their maintenance and their costs. 

However, before diving into their accounts, it is important to recognize and understand the origins of Black beauty and where it stands today.

Brief History of Black Beauty

From the birth of African American culture, beauty has had deep roots that continues to influence the beauty industry today. 

Beginning in African societies, hair has been considered sacred and a form of identity. African communities turned an everyday task into art and a form of survival. African tribes utilized hair or the lack thereof to identify their tribe, age, marital status, and social class. Hair was an essential factor in not only improving appearance but also in building community, bonds, and tradition.

During slavery, hair in particular, was an essential factor in enslaved Africans daily life. For example, braids, or cornrows, were used as escape routes. African women would cornrow maps in other slave's heads that would later guide them to freedom. 

Yet in the early 1900s, Black women began to turn their oppression and insecurity into an inspiring, cultural movement. During a time when beauty standards centered around white features like pale skin, straight hair, and small, dainty features—Black women embraced their brown skin, kinky hair, full lips and broad noses to show pride and empowerment.

Moreover, before her death in 1919, Black woman entrepreneur Madam C.J. Walker became the first American self-made millionaire. She began a hair care line specifically for Black hair types, encouraging Black women to embrace and manage their natural hair. 

During the mid 1900s, Black barber shops and hair salons became more common across the United States. These places quickly became a cultural hub; African Americans gathered, gossiped, and gained confidence all in one place.  

Today's Black Beauty Standards

Beauty standards today constantly change and evolve. Black beauty standards in particular have become more expensive over the years and require heavy maintenance. 

"Fills" are services that maintain and refresh acrylic nails and eyelash extensions. Similarly, a "touch-up" is a service done to refresh hairstyles. Whether it is knotless braids, a lace front wig, or even body waxing, Black women return after a few weeks to get restored to its original condition

Many Black women invest in quality services such as lace front wig installs, knotless braids, eyelash extensions, body waxing and more that are both time consuming and costly. Despite the cost, Black women continue to maintain these services to maintain an image of success and composure. 

First Hand Accounts

Monae Cunningham

For Monae Cunningham, beauty is everything. She takes utmost pride in her appearance everywhere she goes. An ideal appointment routine for her includes a sew in (hair extensions), eye lash extensions, makeup, acrylic manicure and pedicure, and body wax. 

In order to get a sew in, one must purchase hair, also known as bundles. 

One bundle can range from $5-$500, depending on their length, quality and texture. Cunningham states that she normally purchases 4 bundles which costs approximately $700. "The good thing about it is that you can reuse them," she says. 

Bundles are reusable for many installs depending on how well they are managed during wear and in storage. 

As for the appointment itself, she pays $220. Not to mention that Cunningham would have to come with her hair washed and blow dried, or that would be an up charge for the appointment. The duration of this appointment is about 3 hours. The sew in itself can last up to two months. 

Cunningham also gets her eyelash extensions done. She gets a volume set with bottom lashes which is a very full look. She states "They are always one hundred dollars." This service takes about another 3 hours. After the initial install, she returns about every 3 weeks for a fill. 

"A $12 eyebrow wax never hurt" states Cunningham, indicating that she normally gets her eyebrows waxed. 

Cunningham also enjoys getting a manicure and pedicure. She gets acrylic nails and toes. Her nails are $100 and her toes are $60. She also returns every 3 weeks for a fill for these services. The manicure fill is $80 and the pedicure fill is $45.

Body waxing is very important to Cunningham as she expresses her high dislike for body hair. She gets her legs, armpits, and Brazilian wax. The complete total for her body wax is $110. Once a month or so, Cunningham returns for another wax for maintenance. 

Depending on the occasion, Cunningham may get her makeup professionally done which would cost $110. "I try to do my own depending on where I'm going, just to save money because everything else is already so expensive." She also explains that the makeup products that she does own are well over $200. 

Cunningham does not normally tip her service providers because "The service is already so expensive, I'm gonna come back in a couple weeks and sometimes the quality service is just not there." 

In total, Cunningham spends about $1,350 to get dolled up for the first time, not including any fill or touch up appointments. This is the cost of rent. It is a significant investment for appearance, but for many, it is vital—not because they need it, but because they simply enjoy it. 

Kya Shelton

Kya Shelton is another Black woman who prioritizes her beauty and pays it's great expenses. Shelton normally gets knotless braids, acrylic manicure, a pedicure, a Brazilian and eyebrow wax. 

Knotless braids requires one to purchase packs of braiding hair. The amount of packs one gets depends on the length and size of the braids. Shelton normally gets small knotless braids which requires about 8 packs of braiding hair. 

Each pack alone is $5, so in total she spends about $40 on braiding hair. 

"Depending on the braider, they may include braiding hair, which would be reflected in the price of the braids." Shelton states. The appointment is $280. 

"I am there all day, literally for 9, sometimes 10 hours. I also have to purchase snacks and even dinner sometimes for my appointment." Shelton adds on that about a month after her appointment, she will schedule another to have the first 3 to 4 rows redone. 

Shelton does not like eyelash extensions, as she prefers eyelash strip extensions. These are eyelashes one can apply on their own that are reusable. The cost of Shelton's eyelash strips are $15. She explains that she saves a drastic amount of money yearly by not getting them professionally done. 

Nails and toes are Shelton's primary focus when scheduling beauty appointments. 

"Since a little girl, my mom kept my nails and toes done," indicating that Black mothers instill the habit of maintaining themselves to their Black daughters at an early age. 

Shelton gets an acrylic nail set that is at least $90, all depending on the design that she chooses. Moreover, Shelton also gets a pedicure. She gets acrylic on her big toes and gel on the rest. Since she gets acrylic on her big toes, there is an up charge of $10, making it $80 rather than $70. She will go back for a fill every 2 and a half weeks.

Similar to Cunningham, Shelton also gets her eyebrows and Brazilian area waxed. Her eyebrows are $15 and her Brazilian is $90. These services also require maintenance, so about every 3 weeks, she goes back for a touch up. 

Shelton is not necessarily fond of makeup, but if she is not wearing eyelash strips, she wears mascara. Her mascara tube is about $20.  

Shelton loves to tip her service providers, and is willing to tip up to $45, depending on how well the service was performed. 

In total Shelton pays about $630 for each service or beauty product. Though it is significantly less than Cunningham, it is very expensive compared to other cultures. 

Domonique Dowell

Domonique Dowell loves all things beauty, and is willing to go any and all lengths to ensure her self-confidence. Dowell normally gets a quick weave (hair extensions), eyelash extensions, and a manicure. She is also prone to "do it yourself" and saves money doing so 

A quick weave is exactly what it sounds like— a quick, weave. Like the sew in that Cunningham gets, a quick weave requires bundles. Dowell orders 3 bundles which costs about $200. 

"I go right on AliExpress because its cheaper of course and nobody will suspect anything." The appointment is $120. "I don't think the price is that bad." states Dowell. "I keep the install in for a little less than a month and the hair is not as expensive as it could be." Dowell understands how expensive services are and recognizes that she could be paying more than what she currently is.

Dowell gets a hybrid eyelash extension set which is a mix of a natural and volume set for $115. Like Cunningham, she returns for a fill in a couple of weeks. Her fills cost about $90. 

Similar to Shelton, Dowell gets a manicure, and during half the year she gets a pedicure. Her manicures are $75 for a full set of acrylic nails. In the summer, she goes to get a pedicure which costs $40. For her manicure, she goes every few weeks for a fill and gets a pedicure once a month. In the winter, she paints her own toe nails which saves her plenty of funds during the winter months. 

Dowell does her own makeup as well. "It is a lot when you break down the price of each product." She could not begin to estimate how much money in makeup products that she owned. She said "at least $400."

Dowell explains that she loves tipping and will tip as necessary. She says the most she tips is around $10. 

In total, Dowell pays $550 for her beauty appointments, and constantly buys makeup to add to her collection. Even though Dowell does a few services herself, she still spends over $500 on beauty. 

Conclusion

Black beauty is more than just appearance, but it is a way of life. Black women plan months in advance for a hairstyle, eyelash extensions and waxes, simply because of how expensive they are. When considering each service, the price quickly adds up. 

A fresh sew in, new set of acrylics and freshly waxed eyebrows hold great significance to Black culture and each personal, Black life. 

In a world that criticizes and corrects Black features, Black beauty and Black life, it is essential that Black women especially, find comfort and beauty in their own skin, no matter the price tag. 

Whether cultures look at it as luxury or way of life, Black women will continue to grow, evolve, and pay for each service they aspire to have.